Holidays in Rome

Saint Peter’s is almost overwhelming. Having seen many Roman churches before St. Peter’s, I almost passed it up on my first trip and found the almost didn’t happen visit stunning. The church is difficult to describe since it is incomparable to virtually anything else architectural, whether place of worship or more worldly. At its time it was the largest construction project ever undertaken, and was not surpassed in height in Europe until the building of the Eiffel Tower.

But the enormity is dwarfed by the beauty, elegance and proportion. The square provides an exquisite setting. The Bernini colonnade is exceptionally graceful, and geometrically precise. The exterior, especially the setting of the dome, can be seen in the way Michelangelo intended only by viewing it from further back on Via della Conciliazione. Carlo Maderno extended the form from a Greek cross to a Roman cross, thus spoiling the view of the magnificent dome.

Cassette or CD tours are usually available in the portico of the church. At certain times free guided tours are offered. Check with the Vatican Tourist Office. Michelangelo’s Pietà is the work of art, which is in the first chapel on the right. Michelangelo created the work when only 20 years old. A stunning work of art for anyone, let alone a youth.

After the Pietà, the Baldichino over the main altar is the next main attraction. Also see the window of the Holy Ghost at the rear, and next to it, the symbolic chair of the Bishop of Rome. Tradition holds that it contains Peter’s original chair. The main altar, the Confessio, is placed, according to tradition, directly over the actual tomb of Peter. Pius XII instituted serious excavations in the 1940s. The evidence is strong that the altar may, indeed, be over the tomb of Peter.

On the right side of the nave, just before the crossing, northeast of the main altar, you’ll find an ancient bronze statue of Peter. Its foot is worn to a nub by being touched, and indeed kissed, by so many over so many years. You’ll also find, in the nave toward the entrance, markers in the center of the aisle showing the lengths of other large churches.

Do visit the grottoes underneath, which is not to be confused with the Necropolis. You’ll find the entrance at one of the four pillars supporting the dome – beneath the Apostles’ statues. Do it at the end of your visit as you’ll exit to the north side exterior of the church, a few minutes walk from the entrance. From the flowers at the tombs, you can easily see which is the most popular pope. Outside, near the grotto exit, you’ll find the elevator to the roof. Take the elevator to the roof, where you’ll find an excellent view of the city. That’s the Pantheon at far left, the Vittoriano in the upper right hand corner.

Have at least enough energy to walk up inside the dome from the roof to the surrounding catwalk for a view of the dome’s interior. You’ll find this a rare bird’s eye view of the interior a major church. It’s somewhat easier standing here to see that each of the golden letters surrounding the dome is six feet high, and that the mosaic tiles are the size of a man’s hand.

A bit more investment of energy will take you to the top of the dome of Saint Peter’s, to the lantern. Here is a wonderful panorama of the city and a view of the manicured Vatican gardens and grounds.